Audio | Interview on BBC London with Robert Elms
Karen was delighted to be invited on the Robert Elms radio show on 1st June 2021 to talk about her work, in his 'Whose London' feature. A wonderful show all about hats!
Listen to the 9 minute interview HERE >
You can also read the full episode transcript below.
Robert Elms: Would it be fair to say there has been a revival in hat wearing for both men and women?
Karen Henriksen: I think I'd agree with you about men in particular. Perhaps men are maybe a bit more willing to buy online than women are, when it comes to hats
RE: How did you get into hat making, did you study a milliner's course?
KH: Originally I did a degree in fashion in the 1980's. Eventually I did my MA at the Royal College of Art in 2003 in Millinery - in between I learnt on the job and worked for other milliners, taking some short courses and a few self-taught projects aswell. A lot of people get into it as a second career.
RE: Is there still a hat making 'industry' in Britain? Obviously, Luton used to be very famous for hats, didn't it?
KH: It's shrunk a lot in Luton. Over the last couple of years we have revived the British Hat Guild, which has been lovely over the past year. It's all gone onto Zoom of course, but it's such a lovely community. It's a small industry and we all know each other. It's been really great reviving the Hat Guild.
RE: Would you say that most hats made here now are at the specialist end of the market, women buying hats for weddings or big events rather than for everyday use?
KH: Well that's where I'm a bit different to other milliners! Yes, if you say milliner to most people they would automatically think weddings, Royal Ascot,etc. And that really truly is where most milliners are involved. But I'm not really, I make everyday hats, I call it 'everyday elegance'. Just listening to your show this morning, the hat is so evocative and so iconic isn't it? I love that about it. I have this practical nature aswell, and I want to translate some of that into something we would all wear, everyday. So that's really what I'm all about.
RE: Do you make hats for both men and women?
KH: Yes, I do! I take classic hat styles like the trilby, fedora, flat cap and I do a lot of pattern cutting. That's where my designs are just a bit different. Beacause I do all the making myself, they have that handmade feel - more tailored really I'd say rather than handmade.
RE: So are they made bespoke? Or are they just handmade and people come and buy them?
KH: A bit of both! I'm quite prolific, so I design new shapes all the time. I sell online, so certain shapes are always available. I have a studio in central London at a place called Cockpit Arts - I can also see people by appointment, and if they want something tweaked or something in a different fabric, I can do that too. I can also do a full range of head sizes, because I'm in control of the whole process.
RE: I'm looking at your hats as we speak, first of all I have to say they are lovely!
KH: Thank you!
RE: And you're right, they are everyday hats but they are not everyday, they are special hats for everyday if that makes sense.
KH: Yeah they can be as smart or as casual as you like, really.
RE: Do you only sell online, or can people come and see you or see they in shop?
KH: This year, online selling has become even more important!
RE: Of course!
KH: We are excited that we are going to have our Summer Festival again this year, after 18 long months we can open our doors again for our Open Studios at Cockpit Arts later this month. I also welcome clients by appointment in my studio. I also show at craft and design fairs. They are mostly in the Autumn - there is lovely one called MADE London, held at One Marylebone, I'm sure you know that building!
RE: Yes.
KH: It's a beautiful place. Things like that. It's so lovely to meet clients in person and get their feedback on the hat styles.
RE: Do you sell more summer hats or winter hats?
KH: For me, winter is the bigger season. Because it's more of an investment - in this country at least.
RE: (laughs) We have more winter than summer!
KH: Yes! Although I think with men it's a bit different. If they are a hat wearer, they may wear a hat all year round.
RE: I must admit, I'm more of a summer hat wearer.
KH: Oh, OK!
RE: Yesterday, I looked up and brought down the hat box that has the Panamas in it. Because the sun was shining, and I thought, time for the Panama. In the winter it's a hat to keep you warm, it has that special function. But wearing a hat at a jaunty angle in the sun, is something I've always really enjoyed.
KH: I'm really glad to hear that. I hope you do wear your Panama this afternoon!
RE: I'm going to do just that! In the Summer when we used to travel, I would always travel with a hat. Because if you're going somewhere properly hot - I'm ginger with pale skin - it's actually really sensible to wear a wide brimmed hat.
KH: It is, absolutely! I feel the effects of the sun too. I also do sun visors for women. What I hate in the summer - it doesn't bother everyone, but it bothers me: wearing something around my forehead, I tend to live in my visors as they slope down from the top of the head.
RE: What sort of price range are we looking at for your hats? Obviously they are special hats, handmade and the like.
KH: They are mostly between £120 and £180, is the most popular price range. There are prices on either side of that, too.
RE: One of the other problems I have, is sometimes having the courage to wear my hats. I have a pair of bowler hats, a brown one and a black one. Both absolutely beautiful, the brown one was a gift from Paul Smith which was lovely of him. But I have to say if you wear a bowling hat as an English gentleman today, the traffic stops! You get an awful lot of comments!
KH: Yeah, but don't you think they are mostly compliments? Good comments I think!
RE: Sometimes! I did take at one point to wearing a bowler hat whil I rode my bicycle, because the bowler hat was originally designed for horsemen, it's a crash helmet essentially. And that really does stop the traffic!
KH: I think you should start doing that again!
RE: Where can people see your hats Karen?
KH: On my website www.karenhenriksen.co.uk, or on instagram @kh_millinery
RE: It's been an absolute pleaseure talking to you.
KH: Thank you and it makes me very happy to hear a whole show dedicated to hats!
RE: Indeed, who would do that but us!?